Two weeks ago, Amber and Evan decided to join us at Marija and Pjerino Šimunović’s Konoba Dionis on the Pakleni Islands, just off Hvar Town, for a day in the sun and some good food.
We helped to pick all the vegetables from the garden – potatoes, spring onions, and, most importantly, artichokes. (It was the end of the artichoke season.)
Marija also picked the wild herbs and shrubs, explaining that almost everything that grows on the islands can be used in the kitchen.
Marija showed us how she prepares Breaded Artichokes with Peas.
The meal then started with Dionis’ famous Eggplant Pie, followed by the artichokes, then fried skate with vegetables and finished with a home-made torte.
Joanne, John and I went exploring Hvar Island on Friday by scooter. After catching the ferry from Split to Stari Grad, we drove the scooters across the island to Sveta Nedjelja, and then along the coast to Hvar Town.
On Hvar Town’s waterfront we were met by George Šimunović who raced us across to the Pakleni Islands. On Sveti Klement Island is our favorite restaurant in all of Dalmatia – Konoba Dionis – run by the Šimunović family.
We have mentioned Dionis before here as part of our sea-kayaking tour around Vis and Hvar Islands, but now we are offering the chance to visit this uniquely Dalmatian restaurant and be taught by Pjerino, George’s brother, how to prepare dishes such as octopus salad and gregada (a special Hvar fish stew) on a day tour from Split. The Šimunović family also produce their own wine and olive oil, and the production of these is also explained.
Included in the tour will be the return ferry from Split, transfer to Hvar Town, water-taxi to the restaurant, the lesson, a long 3-course lunch with wine and brandies and time on the beach. The price of the tour is 85 Euro – and will be available before May 15th and after September 30th. Please email us with any questions – info@lifejacketadventures.com .
Monday, 7th July
End of the Tour in Hvar Town
For our last day together the plan was to sail the southern coast of Hvar Island. But the jugo (southern wind) had blown in during the night, meaning it would be impossible to anchor in the small exposed bays. Instead we enjoyed (well some of us!) a good sail before returning to the Pakleni Islands and finding yet another beach-side konoba.
For the evening we found space in Hvar Town harbour. Hvar has become a jet-set hangout. All the hotels have been renovated by Sunćani Hvar and numerous bars crowd the waterfront – including the infamous Carpe Diem.
The nobility that controlled all the vineyards and olive groves on the surrounding islands lived in Hvar. They built several grand houses and Europe’s first public theatre inside its old walls. Other highlights of Hvar are Dalmatia’s largest piazza and the Arsenal , which was used during the Venetian occupation to repair the commune’s war galley.
After a sunset walk to the Spanish Fort, which crouches above the town, we settled down to our last meal together before trying out several of the bars.
Post-Mortem – With several days of winds on the nose, the kayaking was strenuous, but even with all the exercise, due to the gourmet food and wine imbibed, everyone will need to go on a diet!
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour – click here.)
Sunday, 6th July
Sailing Across to Hvar Island – Exploring the Pakleni
Tove unfortunately had to leave us early, so she caught the ferry back from Vis Island to Split. The rest of us enjoyed an early morning coffee or three on Vis Town’s riva - waterfront. Then it was time to cross the channel to Hvar Island.
With not much wind and the sun beating down a swim and a rope swing was taken in the middle of the 12km crossing.
The day was to be spent on the Pakleni Islands, a small group just off Hvar Town. Pakleni means hell in Croatian. Boat builders used the islands in the past for making pine tar, a sticky material produced by the high temperature distillation of pine wood – which was known as paklena. The tar was used to preserve boats’ wood and rigging. The many fires used to make the tar gave the islands a hellish appearance.
Anchoring in a small cove, we swam ashore and walked to a hidden restaurant, Dionis. Our hosts had prepared us an eggplant pie and octopus salad for starters and gregada for main course. Gregada is another fishermen’s stew, but unlike brudet, it is made with white wine, potatoes and garlic. All this food was consumed whilst sitting on Dionis’ huge terrace, which over their vineyard towards Vis Island, from where we had just sailed.
The sandy bottom bay of Palmižana was our port-of-call for the night. For those looking for a romantic week, see the Meneghello Family website. Over the last 100 years they have built beautiful bungalows amongst their gardens. We enjoyed cocktails into the wee small hours at a beach-side bar.
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour – click here.)
Saturday, 5th July
Completing the Circumnavigation of Vis Island – Stončica Bay
A serve of fried eggs and a cup of coffee gave us all the energy to begin our last day on Vis Island.
A short kayak had us at the first stop; the sandy beach (not typical for Dalmatia) of Stončica Bay. While some of us soaked up the sun, others combined two favourite pastimes – drinking beer and playing soccer.
Lunch came from the grill – squid, veal and vegetables were all thrown on it, and as usual too much was ordered – no one lost weight on this tour! The simple food was drizzled with olive oil and garlic – excellent!
The short paddle to complete the circumnavigation of Vis Island was again into a stiff sea breeze, and we were happy to complete it.
Dinner was at the best pizzeria in Vis overlooking the harbour.
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour – click here.)
Friday, 4th July
Kayaking along Vis Island’s Southern Coast – Stiniva Bay and Mala Travna
Because of geological reasons, the southern sides of the Dalmatian Islands are the most interesting – towering cliffs with narrow pebble beaches slicing into them. The day’s paddling was the most enjoyable with many nooks and crannies to be explored. The wind gods were against us again with a slight head wind, which almost doubled the excursion time.
Just before lunch we visited the most photographed beach on Vis, Stiniva Bay. From the mouth of the bay there is no evidence of the hidden cove at the end – its an incredible little space.
On a per capita basis, Vis Island is the poet capital of the world – everyone describes themselves as a one. Our favourite is Senko. He operates a small restaurant on his terrace above Mala Travna Bay. Senko is one of a few chefs to push the boundaries of Dalmatian cooking. He is not happy to serve the standard fare, but is always experimenting with local herbs and the preparation of fish. We happily sat as Senko placed course after course of small dishes in front of us. Of course there was his domestic wine with which to wash it all down. Senko only cooks if you call him in advance.
To get to the campsite we had a short sunset paddle to a small island off the town of Rukavac. In celebration of the 4th July, we had a big BBQ on the beach – plenty of steaks and salads!
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour – click here.)
As mentioned previously, the usual support boat for our sea-kayaking tours has been in Brest for the last 10 days. So we needed another for last week’s adventure around Vis and Hvar Islands. Tim and I headed north to Murter to borrow the only other replica falkuša, the Mikula, from my friend Tomislav. Murter is home to one of the last fleets of traditional lanteen-rigged boats.
The boat needed to be in Vis Town for the start of the tour. To start, we motored down to the town of Primošten for the night.
In the past Primošten was situated on an islet close to the mainland. During the Turkish invasions of 1542 the islet was protected by walls and towers, and a drawbridge connected it to the mainland. When the Turks retreated, the bridge was replaced by the causeway and in 1564 the settlement was named Primošten after the Croatian verb primostiti (to span).
Whilst there we discovered the best steak I have had in Dalmatia at the restaurant Torkul.
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour – click here.)
