For our last day together the plan was to sail the southern coast of Hvar Island. But the jugo (southern wind) had blown in during the night, meaning it would be impossible to anchor in the small exposed bays. Instead we enjoyed (well some of us!) a good sail before returning to the Pakleni Islands and finding yet another beach-side konoba.
For the evening we found space in Hvar Town harbour. Hvar has become a jet-set hangout. All the hotels have been renovated by Sunćani Hvar and numerous bars crowd the waterfront - including the infamous Carpe Diem.
The nobility that controlled all the vineyards and olive groves on the surrounding islands lived in Hvar. They built several grand houses and Europe’s first public theatre inside its old walls. Other highlights of Hvar are Dalmatia’s largest piazza and the Arsenal , which was used during the Venetian occupation to repair the commune’s war galley.
After a sunset walk to the Spanish Fort, which crouches above the town, we settled down to our last meal together before trying out several of the bars.
Post-Mortem - With several days of winds on the nose, the kayaking was strenuous, but even with all the exercise, due to the gourmet food and wine imbibed, everyone will need to go on a diet!
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour - click here.)
Sailing Across to Hvar Island - Exploring the Pakleni
Tove unfortunately had to leave us early, so she caught the ferry back from Vis Island to Split. The rest of us enjoyed an early morning coffee or three on Vis Town’s riva - waterfront. Then it was time to cross the channel to Hvar Island.
With not much wind and the sun beating down a swim and a rope swing was taken in the middle of the 12km crossing.
The day was to be spent on the Pakleni Islands, a small group just off Hvar Town. Pakleni means hell in Croatian. Boat builders used the islands in the past for making pine tar, a sticky material produced by the high temperature distillation of pine wood. The tar was used to preserve boats’ wood and rigging. The many fires used to make the tar gave the islands a hellish appearance.
Anchoring in a small cove, we swam ashore and walked to a hidden restaurant, Dionis. Our hosts had prepared us an eggplant pie and octopus salad for starters and gregada for main course. Gregada is another fishermen’s stew, but unlike brudet, it is made with white wine, potatoes and garlic. All this food was consumed whilst sitting on Dionis’ huge terrace, which over their vineyard towards Vis Island, from where we had just sailed.
The sandy bottom bay of Palmižana was our port-of-call for the night. For those looking for a romantic week, see the Meneghello Family website. Over the last 100 years they have built beautiful bungalows amongst their gardens. We enjoyed cocktails into the wee small hours at a beach-side bar.
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour - click here.)
Completing the Circumnavigation of Vis Island - Stončica Bay
A serve of fried eggs and a cup of coffee gave us all the energy to begin our last day on Vis Island.
A short kayak had us at the first stop; the sandy beach (not typical for Dalmatia) of Stončica Bay. While some of us soaked up the sun, others combined two favourite pastimes - drinking beer and playing soccer.
Lunch came from the grill - squid, veal and vegetables were all thrown on it, and as usual too much was ordered - no one lost weight on this tour! The simple food was drizzled with olive oil and garlic - excellent!
The short paddle to complete the circumnavigation of Vis Island was again into a stiff sea breeze, and we were happy to complete it.
Dinner was at the best pizzeria in Vis overlooking the harbour.
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour - click here.)
Kayaking along Vis Island’s Southern Coast - Stiniva Bay and Mala Travna
Because of geological reasons, the southern sides of the Dalmatian Islands are the most interesting - towering cliffs with narrow pebble beaches slicing into them. The day’s paddling was the most enjoyable with many nooks and crannies to be explored. The wind gods were against us again with a slight head wind, which almost doubled the excursion time.
Just before lunch we visited the most photographed beach on Vis, Stiniva Bay. From the mouth of the bay there is no evidence of the hidden cove at the end - its an incredible little space.
On a per capita basis, Vis Island is the poet capital of the world - everyone describes themselves as a one. Our favourite is Senko. He operates a small restaurant on his terrace above Mala Travna Bay. Senko is one of a few chefs to push the boundaries of Dalmatian cooking. He is not happy to serve the standard fare, but is always experimenting with local herbs and the preparation of fish. We happily sat as Senko placed course after course of small dishes in front of us. Of course there was his domestic wine with which to wash it all down. Senko only cooks if you call him in advance.
To get to the campsite we had a short sunset paddle to a small island off the town of Rukavac. In celebration of the 4th July, we had a big BBQ on the beach - plenty of steaks and salads!
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour - click here.)
Kayaking around Biševo Island - the Monk Seal and Blue Caves
After rising relatively early, we cruised across to Biševo Island. Its name is derived from the local word for the worm-holes found in wood because of the numerous above and under water caves that run through its limestone.
Our first stop was the Monk Seal Cave - the scene of the last sightings of the Adriatic Monk Seal. Unfortunately due to a reduction in fish stocks and attacks by fishermen the seals have disappeared. The cave that they used to inhabit is large, with a high initial chamber and a low passage leading 60 metres away into the dark. It is possible to paddle almost to the back - with headlamps of course.
For lunch we kayaked to our friends’ (Davor and Lili) house on Salbunara Bay.
Several years ago Davor and Lili decided to escape Zagreb to almost the most remote island in Croatia. They have built several bungalows for guests hidden amongst the oil trees - its real get-a-from-it-all stuff. No television or telephones or even mains water and electricity. Dismayed with the amount of trash on their small beach, they started an organization for its renovation - Bisevo.Org. That have held several clean-up events and have managed to improve the local environment - all without the help of local government.
They made us an excellent risotto from freshly harvested molluscs (much to Gabe’s chagrin) and we drank several litres of red wine produced from grapes directly out their front door.
Davor showed us his dog’s (Bura) puppies. She is a tornjak - a Bosnian Sheep Guarding Dog. Similar to other sheep guarding dogs, these large breeds would live amongst the flock and protect it from wolf or bear attacks. Because of this protective pack instinct tornjaks make excellent family pets - if you have a large enough yard. They were never bred for herding.
Davor and Lili joined us for the journey to the Blue Cave (Modra Špilja). We kayaked and swam in to what was one of Dalmatia’s first tourist attractions. Eventhough it was late in the afternoon plenty of light was reflecting from the cave floor to cast a turquoise glow around the room. A local artist had installed some of her sculptures - wire human forms hanging from buoys - in the space, making for a surreal scene.
Due to the over consumption of food and wine at lunch, we opted for the tow-back method for the return to Komiža.
For dinner we were invited to Mateja’s house. Mateja is the sister of Joško Božanić. She made us a large pot of brudetto (brudet) - a typical fisherman’s stew of eel, red wine and tomatoes. It was again washed down by large carafes of domestic wine. Joško also dropped in for a quick chat before leaving for the Brest International Maritime Festival.
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour - click here.)
Wednesday was the day we started paddling! After a 2 hour ferry crossing to Vis Island and a healthy meal (the last not to involve wine for the whole trip), we organized kayaks and, following a quick explanation of a wet exit, headed out.
Immediately from the boats it was possible to see evidence of Vis’ historically important role in controlling the Adriatic Sea. The Adriatic gets its name from a colony, Adria, on the Po River Delta in Italy, founded by Illyrian King Adrias. Adrias’ throne was on Vis. His son, Ionius, then gave his name to the Ionian Sea. Until relatively recently the border between the two seas was Vis Island.
Behind the present tennis courts is a Greek necropolis. Dionisius the Elder, the tyrant of Syracuse in 397 BC established a colony, Issa, on Vis. Later, it became an independent city-state, minted its own coins and founded other colonies elsewhere on the Dalmatian coast and its islands.
In the 3rd Century BC, the Roman Empire saw an opportunity to conquer all of Dalmatia after an argument developed between the Greek colonists and the Illyrians. The foundations of the Roman baths are still visible across the road from the INA petrol station.
As we reached the mouth of the harbour on the left are the ruins of the English Fort St. George. In 1805 the Napoleon had taken the island from the Austrians. But the English weren’t too happy having the French in control of the ‘Gibraltar of the Adriatic’, so in March 1811, they attacked and occupied the island until 1814. This gave them enough time though to do what the English do best - setup a cricket club.
Just around the corner we kayaked into the next fragment of military history on the island - a Yugoslav Navy patrol-boat shelter. After WW2, Tito upset both the Russians and NATO, so not knowing who to trust he turned Vis into a massive fortress - riddled with tunnels, gun emplacements and this large, concrete, watery cave. Civilians (except those with a special allowance) were not allowed on the island until 1989.
Leaving the shelter behind we began an up-hill slog into the sea breeze (or maestral). I tried to explain, but the wind just carried my words away, that before us lay the site of the world’s last battle fought under sail between the Austrians and the Italians in 1866.
The head wind exhausted us all, so once we reached Zukamice Bay it was decided to pile onto the falkuša for the last 3kms into Komiža. There were more important things on the agenda, such as dinner at Roki’s Winery!
Komiža is a small town on Vis Island’s northwest. It is home to the falkuša and was the only place in Croatia to make its living purely from fishing. Gabe, as the tour’s resident beef-eater, was happy to hear that sea-life was going to provide most of the meals for the next few days.
Nik Roki shuttled us up to his winery where we enjoyed octopus and lamb cooked under the dome, and several bottles of his plavac mali (red wine) and bugava (white wine).
(For all the pictures of the kayak tour - click here.)
On Sunday Nicolas Sarkozy launched the Mediterranean Union, saying, “Our common Sea should bring us closer together, not separate us.”
Sarkozy’s idea for the union is of a community similar but looser to the European Union, made-up of 43 EU-member states and non-EU countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea. He hopes the MU will become a vehicle through which peace between Israel and its Arab neighbours can be achieved. It is hoped that an institutional core will be established by the end of the French presidency of the European Union in 2008.
Member states would form a regular council under a rotating presidency similar to the current EU model. The Mediterranean and European Unions would also work together and share some institutions, including a common judicial area to fight corruption, terrorism, organized crime and people smuggling.
Sarkozy’s quote is very similar to a local Dalmatian saying, “Staviš prst u more i osetiš svet,” which is roughly translated as, “Put your finger in the sea and you are connected to the world.” The sea has always been a great bridge between cultures.
The working classes across the Mediterranean even had their own language - the original Lingua Franca. It was a mixed language composed mostly of Italian with a vocabulary drawn from Persian, French, Greek and Arabic. Lingua Franca literally means “Frankish language”, which came from the Arabic custom of referring to all Europeans as Franks. This language was used for communication around the medieval and early modern Mediterranean as a trade language.
Lingua Franca is the mother of all pidgin languages. As it was known by the Mediterranean sailors, when they started exploring the seas of Africa, America, Asia and Oceania, they tried to communicate with the natives by mixing a Portuguese-influenced version of Lingua Franca with the local languages.
The language was used until the 19th Century, when it disappeared, probably under the onslaught of the triumphant French language. It was never written. There was never any poetry, folktales, or translation of the Bible created using it. It was just a way to sell the merchandise you had to offer, or haggle for a better price on its purchase.
Komiski dialect (the unique language of those from Komiža) still contains many words from Lingua Franca. When Joško took the falkuša to Expo 98 in Portugal he was able to communicate his boat-handling commands to the local fishermen.
It is a paradox that the world isolated is derived from the Latin insula meaning island. Yet islanders have always been more open than those from the continent.
Split suffers even today from the conflict between these two mentalities - the world view of seafarers and the tribal view of land-lubbers. The Spličani (people born in Split) and the bodol (islanders) regularly clash with the vlaj (people from the continental-side of the Dinaric Alps). Split has gone from a population at the end of WW2 of 40 000 to today’s population of 250 000. The biggest influx has been from ‘behind-the-hills’. The vlaj suffered from 500 years of the fear of Turkish raiders cutting their throats as they slept. Their extended families (or tribes) were the only ones that could be trusted. This idea seems now to have been grafted onto their genes. Since moving to Split they still don’t trust strangers and act very much within their ‘tribal groups’.
Growing up around water definitely seems to make people more relaxed - maybe the Mediterranean can help finally solve the Israeli/Arab problem.
For the last 34 years the Venetian authorities have stopped commercial travel on the canals and turned them over to human-powered craft - an event called the Vogalonga. It was simply amazing to paddle in it this year on May 11.
It is one of those transcendental events that must be done - like running the New York Marathon, paddling the Molokai Hoe or scampering along at the Running of the Bulls. So many things come together - great crowds (really enjoying themselves), history, culture and having an attachment to a stunning place (other than just being a tourist).
An estimated 5 000 people were involved this year - paddling or rowing anything that could float - outriggers, dragon boats, dories, rowing shells, traditional Venetian boats and kayaks - all with flags and ribbons flying. The course started in front of the Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Square, wound its way up Burano Island (known for its lace), back to Murano Island (famous for its glasswork) and back down the Grand Canal (under the Rialto and Accademia Bridges) to the finish - 30kms in total.
I was able to convince Morten, a Danish friend from Split, to come. It was all last minute after I saw a post on Paddling Planet. Morten had never been in a kayak before but was keen. I found out later as we were paddling that he had also never been to Venice before - what an introduction to the Serene Empire. There is no better way to discover a maritime culture than in a kayak.
Below are 3 pictures but many more can be found here.
We finished after 5 hours, totally exhausted, but extremely happy! The weather was just right - not too hot, not too cold. At all times the scenery was superb - either the Venetian Gothic palaces of the Grand Canal or the multi-coloured houses of the small canals of Burano.
We are already organizing baby-sitters for next year so the wifes can come!
Over the weekend of 10-12 May we were able to enjoy the hospitality of Giorgio and Maritzia who organized the first seakayaking symposium - Bibione Kayak - of which we know on the Adriatic Sea. The base for the event was Capalonga Camping, about 1 hour from Venice, in northern Italy. The camp is also only 1 hour from Motovun, in Croatia - which was handy for us.
At the event we met many interesting paddlers, including Nigel Foster (seakayak designer and adventurer) and Kristin (potter to the stars), Jen Kleck (a friend of Ray Fusco’s from the US) and Kay (importer for Klepper Folding Kayaks), and others from Serbia, Slovenia, Germany, Sweden and the Netherlands.
On the Monday night Lifejacket Adventures gave a short, mosquito-plagued talk on kayaking in Croatia, our attempt to cross the Adriatic Sea by kayak unsupported and the old wooden boats of Croatia. The above video was included and shows how to paddle (or row) ‘old-school’.
We made the most of the excellent facilities at the campground - swimming, bbqing and bike riding. We couldn’t get the kids out of the pool as the weather was perfect. Next year we plan to attend for the whole week. Seakayakers in Europe should definitely make the effort to attend, as the festival also ties into the Vogalonga event in Venice. Congratulations to Bibione Kayak!
Tonight our friends Jane Cody and John Nash had the official Croatian launch of their book, Croatia Cruising Companion. Jane also did some writing for the new Timeout Croatia magazine, and she presented it as well to the audience of marina representatives and tourism agencies.
The Cruising Companion took Jane and John several years to research - they visited every bay of significance from Zadar to the south. For each they produced anchorage charts as well as wrote lengthy descriptions on available facilities - such as our laundrette in Split.
The book is perfect for those coming here to rent a yacht and visit the Dalmatian Islands. It is currently ranked #3 for both books on Croatia and those on sailing on Amazon.com.
Timeout Croatia has a thicker guide magazine again this year. More stories and more information are crammed inside. One of our kayaking pictures, taken on a tour around Vis and Hvar Islands, appears in the adventure section.
Except for the odd day when the bura howls down from the mountains, the Adriatic Sea is relatively calm. This makes the Dalmatian Coast a perfect location for ship-borne activities which may not be possible elsewhere. One idea that we have been asked to help on is a restaurant/bar catamaran. This work is part of our plan to learn everything possible about boat construction and renovation.
We encountered a small problem, yesterday, as we tried to shift the boat into the shed at the boatyard. Welded to the bottom of the trailer we built are 10 trolley wheels. They are rated to 300kgs each. The boat we judged to be 5 tons. But of course 10 x 300 doesn’t equal 5000. We assumed that the wheels’ manufacturer had allowed a large safety margin with the rating. Well, we were wrong - and the wheels buckled as the forklift tried to pull the boat in. We will now have to lift the boat off and drag her in the old way - Egyptian style - on about 20 sections of pipe.
Its a laugh when Aussies or Yanks start talking about heritage. The moment we step out the door of our apartment we are breathing the same air Roman Emperor Diocletian (236 - 316) did 1 700 years ago.
To try an give Aklie some perspective we took him, with our friends, the Smalbys, to the Split Archaeological Museum and Salona, site of the 1st Century Roman city.
The Archaeological Museum, a 10-minute walk from Diocletian’s Palace, contains many artifacts found in the Palace; in Salona, which also happens to be Diocletian’s birthplace; and in the Dalmatian Greek colonies, including Starigrad on Hvar Island. The display is small and intimate. In the courtyard there are many large stone pieces, which quickly become boring. But inside are useful day-to-day objects of typical Roman families - perfume bottles, other beauty tools, jewelery, toys, trinkets and coins. It definitely beats the London’s British Museum and New York’s Metropolitan, as you can see the relics then in the same day visit where they were dug up.
Salona is 10kms from Split. Julius Caesar gave the town status of a Roman colony in 48 B.C. and it was finally destroyed by the Avars in 639. Don Frane Bulić oversaw most of the excavations at the end of the 19th Century. We had a picnic in front of the Basilica of Manastirine and then wandered through the ruins - the town’s churches, bath’s, protective walls, main gate and bridge over the Jadran River.
The ruins of Salona represent another missed opportunity for Split tourism. Very little excavation has been done since that completed by Bulić. A Roman city of 60 000 people, about 3 times the population of Pompei, still lies under derelict houses and vineyards. The ruins host no events or festivals and its very difficult for tourists to directly travel between Split and Salona on local buses.
The above picture is Roklan sitting on a carved, stone sarcophagus for a Roman child from the 1st or 2nd Centuries AD.
It seems every new Chinese restaurant in the former Yugoslavia is called Peking (see our previous post about New Year’s Eve in Slovenia). We’d heard about a restaurant that had just opened near Trogir and that’s where we ended up for dinner.
For those visiting Split, much more information about Diocletian’s Palace and Salona is given on our Evening Walking Tours.
Given that Europe has a population density of 112 people per km² (Australia’s is 2.6) it is difficult to find remote places to which to escape. The Pelješac Peninsula is probably as rugged as it gets in Croatia.
The Peninsula sticks erection-like from the mainland, about 1 ½ hours up the coast from Dubrovnik, towards Korčula Town. Two ridges of hills run up it, creating a central valley. These hills then drop dramatically into the Adriatic Sea on either side. The great thing is that, except for existing villages, this landscape precludes too much further development.
The view above is difficult to read but what it shows is the roof of our kučica (an old donkey shack) looking south with Mljet Island on the left and Korčula Island on the right. This stretch of water is the first section of our Korčula to Dubrovnik Kayak Expedition.
Eventhough its remote, Pelješac is not wild. In fact it could be even described as civilized given that it is known for 2 things that every fine meal needs - oysters and wine.
The briny water of the gulf between the Peninsula and the mainland has for millenia been known as a source of good quality oysters. Our friend, Tony (see above), is a local oyster and mussel farmer. He spends half the year in Croatia and the other half in New Orleans, where, up until Hurricane Katrina, his family also produced oysters.
Our favorite restaurant in Mali Ston for shellfish is Kapetanova Kuća.
Plavac Mali is the Dalmatian red wine grape. On Pelješac there are 2 regions, Dingač and Postup, that are allowed to use their names on wine made from this grape variety. Our kučica sits amongst the vines of Dingač and, as the vineyards are a Croatian cultural monument, no other houses can be built. The soil and steep south-facing slopes is what makes these areas ideal for red wine growing.
A close relative of plavac mali, another local grape variety, from Kaštela, next to the Split Airport, is the same as the world-famous zinfindel from California. The man responsible allowing this discovery is Mike Grgić, founder of Napa Valley winery, Grgić Hills. He was born in Dalmatia and recently returned to open a winery in Trstenik, one of the small towns on Pelješac. Another fine drop is made by Mario and his family at the nearby Bartulović Winery.
Our hope for the Dingač Shack is to drop a moderne Dalmatian box inside the existing stone walls. The platform is designed to take in the view. The box will be clad in compressed cement sheet with Dalmatian dogs screen printed onto each panel or in timber planks such as used on a traditional boat.
