Archive for December, 2007

Dec 21 2007

Mario Andretti’s House

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Istria, Motovun

Mario Andretti's House

The above picture, taken from the top floor of our house in Motovun, will excite petrol-heads. Behind the little church is the childhood home of Mario Andretti. You can see a plaque on the wall mounted by the local car club.

For those who are not interested in car racing and have no idea who is Mario Andretti, he is the most successful driver in US history. He is the only driver to have won the Indy 500, the Daytona 500 and the Formula 1 World Championship. He won 4 IndyCar titles.

Mario and his twin brother Aldo were born on February 28 1940 in Motovun. In 1948 Mario’s family, along with a large portion of the ethnic Italian community, fled Istria. They spent 7 years in a refugee camp before settling in the USA.

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Dec 21 2007

Motovun’s Hidden Railway

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Istria, Motovun

Locomotive 2

Locomotive 1

Whilst exploring around Motovun, we stumbled across several railway tunnels and bridges, all without rails. Several locals told us the old constructions belonged to the Parenzana Railway.

Parenzana Map

Completed in 1902 on the route shown above, La Parenzana was the name of a railway that ran between Trieste, Italy, and Poreč, Croatia, until 1935. (Parenzo is the Italian name for Poreč - the Italians annexed Istria between the World Wars.)

After it started in Trieste, the railway passed Muggia and entered Slovenia at Škofije. It turned towards Koper, on the coast, and crossed the Dragonja River to enter Croatia. It then zig-zagged between Valica and Buje, climbed to Grožnjan, and soon after reached its highest point at 293 meters above sea level. It then descended until it reached Livade, where it forded the Mirna River. It started climbing again towards Motovun, Vižinada and Baldaši, and then gradually descended again, passed Višnjan, and finished in Poreč. At 123 kilometers in length, it was one of Europe’s longest narrow gauge railways.

Due to its sinuous route, the train’s average speed was only 25 kph. It took around 7 hours to complete the whole line. At slower sections passengers would jump off, pick fruit or go to the toilet and return back to the train. At the steepest sections the passengers often had to disembark and push the train.

Parenzana Tunnel

The train was mainly used to transport agricultural products (fish and salt) to Trieste, and during World War I, it was used for military transport.

The railway couldn’t compete with new forms of transport, and with the Depression, the line was closed. The Italian fascists also thought its closure might be an opportunity to further persecute the Istrian population. In August, 1935, the last train ran. The legend is that the tracks were transported to Abyssinia (Ethiopia), then an Italian colony, but never reached Africa as the ship sunk somewhere in the Mediterranean Sea.

Sections have been converted into a recreation trail for pedestrians and cyclists.

For Croatian speakers, there is a website for a group which wants to rebuild the railway as a tourism project - Croatian Association for the Parenzana’s Reconstruction . It still would be able to reconstruct 94% of the line in its original location. It would be excellent for tourism!

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Dec 15 2007

Motovun Concerns

Motovun

We bought a house in the beautiful hill-top town of Motovun a year ago. The plan is to begin renovation in early-2008.

For us, the valleys around Motovun are one of the few areas that have not yet suffered from bad development in Croatia. That is why we were upset to hear that an English development company is seeking permission to build a golf resort just a stone’s throw from the town.

We are not against all golf courses - it’s their location and the inappropriate housing development around them that are the main issues.

A resort near Groznjan will begin construction soon - it will reuse abandoned houses for its accommodation - sounds like an excellent idea.

But, the proposed new Motovun resort will include a 600-bed large scale development just across the valley. Motovun has a permanent population of 300. What will be the visual impact?

And, Motovun has become famous for its truffles - what will happen to them when the chemicals used on the courses enter the ground water? Spain is now dealing with the problems of an over-supply of golf courses and their resorts taxing local water supplies.

Of course the developers have discovered that greasing the palms of local politicians helps when dealing with annoying issues such as environment studies.

Please go to Motovun Eco Town and sign up if interested.

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Dec 13 2007

Glossary of New Words

As part of the renovation of the leut, we have to learn new words specific to the boat:

brod - boat

trup - hull

gaz - draught

skladište - hold

grotlo - hatch

kaljuža - bilge

kobilica - keel

platica - plank

šuperenje - caulking

paklina - pitch

čavli - nail

vijci - screw

svornjak - bolt

pramac - bow

krma - stern

rebra - rib

jarbol - mast

paluba - deck

stupiči - stays

veslo - oar

kormilo - rudder

kosnik - bowsprit

lantina - lateen

sošnjak - gaff

deblenjak - boom

jedro - sail

sidro - anchor

brodski vijak - propeller

svjetlo - light

špirun - bow platform

konop - rope

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Dec 13 2007

Leut Renovation 1

Finished Boat

Leuts are one of several boat designs coastal Croatians developed. Others types include small dingies such as batanas, pasaras and gucs; gajetas, which are sister ships of leuts; and larger merchant mariners such as braceras, trabakuls, and peligs. The boats were used for fishing, trading and tranportation.

Currently we are renovating the Conte (see below), a 11.5m long leut with a 130hp diesel motor, built in the 1940’s. The idea is to return her to a sailing vessel to act in support of our kayaking expeditions along the Dalmatian coast.

Initially, down at the Arista Nautica boat-yard, the fiberglass cabin has been removed and then we will move her inside the warehouse to begin the renovation.

Original State

Without Cabin

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