Jun 20 2009

Australian Wallabies 34 – Italian Azzurri 12 (Julie Meets Ray Meagher (Alf) From ‘Home and Away’)

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Dalmatia, Split

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Today we decided to go to the Irish Pub in Split to watch the rugby union test match between Australia and Italy (Australia won 34-12). There wasn’t a large crowd – just a nice group of 6 Aussies (for Queenslanders) who have just finished a week out on the islands.

One of the group turned out to be one of Australia’s top actors (and one of Julie’s Top 10 Sex Symbols) Ray Meagher. (Julie commented later that it was a bigger thrill for her to meet Ray than to have had Brad Britt brush past her breast in a New York bar 10 years ago!)

If you grew up in Australia in the 80s and 90s, Ray was a part of your nightly life as he has appeared since 1988 as Alf Stewart on Home and Away, one of the longest-running series on Australian television.

We were chuffed to see Split is now starting to attract some glitterati - after all Dubrovnik gets Tom Cruise and John Malkovich, and apparently one of the Princesses of Monaco as well as a Princess from Morocco were on Hvar last weekend.

To show Ray we weren’t just crazy soap opera groupies but were in fact famous ourselves, Julie showed him the picture of us in today’s Slobodna Dalmacija – he definitely seemed very impressed! And even asked to have his picture taken with Julie…

All joking aside – Cheers Ray!

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Jun 19 2009

Leut, Labud, in Today’s Slobodna Dalmacija

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Today the local newspaper, Slobodna Dalmacija (Free Dalmatia), published a story about our plight to get our boat, the Labud, out of Arista Nautica’s shed.

It was a good article, describing how we want to use the boat to promote ‘real’ Dalmatian tourism.

Unfortunately it doesn’t mention the work I did for Arista Nautica and David Hicks – but that aside it is was very positive.

The fight between the Arista directors Don Marshall and Ivica Viljac is made evident with Don saying the boat will be released shortly, and Ivica contradicting that by saying it will not.

(It should be noted that Arista has decided to hire a Public Relations consultant, Lori Vitaljić from Predikat d.o.o., to help with their image.)

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Jun 17 2009

David Hicks of Arista Questioned by Croatian Police

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David Hicks, of Arista Nautica and Arista Yachts, was questioned today by Croatian police in Split, regarding threats he made to us (Julie Morgan and Shane Braddock) on May 8th to harm us himself or use Ivica Viljac as a weapon.

David said on the day, “I want to scare you to protect my friends, Tim Jarman and Giles Weston (unregistered foreigners in Croatia at the time) from your promises to report Tim and Giles to immigration authorities for conducting business affairs against you.”

On Friday Julie was attacked by Ivica Viljac!

Addendum – 28 June 2009 – Surprise – we went to use our car on Sunday only to discover it had been vandalized – we wonder who did it?

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Jun 16 2009

Ivica Viljac Thrown to the Wolves

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Whilst away on a trip this week I received a text message on Friday from David Hicks, an owner of Arista Nautica, who has been holding our leut, Labud, for several weeks, advising me I had some mail at my office.

After weeks of trying to approach Arista and deal with this issue respectively, David’s response was to push a letter under the door of our office at 10pm addressed to ‘Mr Badcock‘, a witty play on my name ‘Braddock‘.

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In the letter, he and Don Marshall stated that I had 24 hours to remove my boat from their premises. Why the sudden change in heart – maybe their lawyer in Zagreb had advised them that they had already committed a crime by holding our boat hostage in their shed!

Even with such short notice Julie did an amazing job of getting all the required machinery to the yard to begin putting the boat in the water, as well as organizing help for our 2- and 5-year olds.

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The Labud was moving smoothly towards freedom when suddenly Ivica Viljac arrived.

As part of Arista’s initial deal to use the space where they are presently they were obliged to make Ivica an equal partner in their firm. (We are going to the police tomorrow to report David Hicks for making threats against us involving Ivica – but that story is for later).

Ivica’s reaction to Julie removing the Labud can be seen in the picture at the top of the post. He was not happy. He ran at Julie screaming! The police were called; he was arrested and found guilty of disturbing the peace and faces a future criminal assault charge.

What seems to have upset Ivica the most, however, was that Don Marshall had not told him what was going to happen on Friday. According to Julie, Tea Odza and Zana Dujmovic (the girls who work in Arista’s office), said there have been previous arguments in this regard – Don doing things in which Ivica believed he should have a say.

Since I was away (which David Hicks knew – I have a text message to prove it), and since Don and David’s letter pressured us to remove the boat by 3pm Friday, Julie, by herself, worriedly rushed to the yard, though with the belief she had the right to be there. She was completely unaware of the physical danger she was in.

It must be said – even the day after both of them (Don and David) sent text messages saying that everything that occurred was of our OWN doing!

Below is Julie at the police station waiting to act as a witness against Ivica.

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But Don and David were not really interested in Julie. Their target appears to be Ivica himself. The next day a story in the local newspaper, Slobodna Dalmacija, explains why.

David and Don have started a new company, Arista Yachts, which is competing with two other companies, Viktor Lenac (RLE) and Adriamar, for the 30-year concession for a large amount of waterside space – they all want to set up a super-yacht yard.

The directors of the new company are Don, David and Geoff Mayhill. Geoff is involved in at least one British company, Ekwienox, with Arthur Hughes, who is owner of Hidden Croatia and Sail Croatia. Luka Grubor, the mouth piece for Arista Yachts in the article below is also a director of Sail Croatia.

But Ivica being on an assault charge should keep him out of the new venture from Arista’s POV – which would obviously upset Don – though he may go back to RLE whence he came.

The English have learned well from the locals how business is done here!

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And where was David whilst all this drama was unfolding. Relaxing on Hvar Island with his parents on his catamaran Mystique, where we happened to bump into them. David’s dad was taking full advantage of the warm weather to work on his all over tan!

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For those that can’t see the video of Ivica attacking Julie below – click here!

 

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Jun 08 2009

LucasFilm Making “Red Tails” in Motovun

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Arriving this weekend in Motovun to check on the house renovations, we thought we had passed through a time warp back to World War 2 Italy. All signs of modern life had been covered and period props were everywhere.

It all was a result of Lucasfilm being in town to film their latest production,, Red Tails. The story is based on the legendary Tuskegee Airmen (32nd Fighter Group), the US’s first all black fighter group. As the publicity for the movie states, they had to fight two battles – the first against the Germans of course and the second against the racial prejudice in the American Army. (The Army actually produced a document that stated African-Americans were not smart enough to be fighter pilots and tried to have the squadrons disbanded.)

They got their nick-name , the Red Tails, as they painted the vertical stabilizers of their P51 Mustangs in distinctive red. The Red Tails undertook the role which none of the other Allied air corps wanted – flying daytime bomber support into German territory – and they proved extremely capable.

The film stars Terrence Howard, Cuba Gooding Jr and Method Man amongst many others.

We wish to thank to the Director of Photography, John Aronson, Set Decorator, Tina Jones, and Unit Publicist, Alisa Buckley, for all their support. They told us they were amazed by Motovun’s beauty – and all were in shock when they heard about the planned golf development below the town.

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Jun 01 2009

Rick Steves in Split – and Back to Dionis

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The effervescent American travel guide, Rick Steves, is making his way through Croatia filming a new documentary about the country and its neighbors. We had a chance to say hello when we bumped into him filming on the riva. Helping him out was Cameron Hewitt, Rick’s associate and book writer, and our friendly guide Maja.

They were on a busy schedule – just the day in Split, before heading south via Hvar Island.

(It must be guide and guide book season at the moment – the girl from Rough Guide Europe also dropped in this week.)

I had spent the day with Dain and Susan been forced to eat fresh food – eggplant pie, octopus salad, gregada and pancakes with marmalade – at Konoba Dionis on the Pakleni Islands, again.

Marija from Dionis shared her secrets about octopus salad and gregada (fish stew) preparation (i.e. freeze the octopus for 2 days after cooking to allow it to soften and be careful when adding the garlic to the stew so it doesn’t burn.)

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Jun 01 2009

Croatia Rubgy 7s Tournament

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Dalmatia, Split

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This weekend Rugby Club Nada in Split held the Croatian Rugby Sevens tournament. Over 2 days the 10 competing teams – Croatia, Italy, France, Germany, Switzerland, Hungary, Bosnia Herzegovina, Cyprus, Belgium, Serbia – played pool and final games.

In the end the French held the trophy aloft, after beating the Italians in the final. Next were the Germans and Croatians.

Lying in the sun with the kids running around playing football – it was a great atmosphere.

Its a shame that Nada has to struggle each year to keep their pitch. Its the last green space in the center of Split’s old town – and greedy developers are lining-up to get their hands on the space to build apartments!

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May 27 2009

Bad News Comes in Threes

The last two weeks have been a little disappointing – and between trying to fix the problems and run tours we haven’t had time to post regularly on the blog. Its written somewhere that bad news comes in threes – so hopefully we have good times ahead.

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#1 – Time Out Croatia

We provided numerous pictures to Time Out Croatia for their current magazine issue, in exchange for our contact details being published, and they chose one. But imagine our shock when we opened the new issue to see that they had put our picture (seen above), uncredited as well, right next to a paragraph of text extolling our competitors, Adriatic Kayak Tours.

The saga continues…

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#2 – Arista Nautica

The leut, Labud, is finished and ready to be launched. But she still sits in the shed at the Arista Nautica yards in Vranjic.

Why? Because two personal friends of David Hicks (one of the yard’s owners), Tim Jarman and Giles Weston, were doing the wrong thing by us business-wise – so we told them to pull their heads in or we would go to the police. The cowards got worried – as they are unregistered to live in Croatia – and ran to David. He demanded we pay $US20,000 before we can remove our boat from the shed. This was done in the hope we would be scared and leave his friends alone.

We told him to keep the boat and that we will see him and Don Marshall (the other owner) in the criminal and civil courts. There are no contracts between us and I have done in the last 12 months three design projects for David and Don and not asked for a cent.

The saga continues…

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#3 – Motovun Elections

Local elections were held across Croatia on May 17. We made the pilgrimage in Motovun to vote. Our friend, Ranko Bon (seen below kissing the obligatory baby (Roklan)), was standing as a candidate for the Green Party in coalition with the Social Democrats. His candidacy was part of a continuing campaign to sustainably improve Motovun (and stop the proposed Jupiter Adria golf development).

The results were not as we had hoped. Firstly, the current mayor and IDS candidate, Slobodan Vugrinec, was returned. Secondly, Ranko didn’t earn a position on the town council.

Across Croatia there was a movement away from the center-right parties (HDZ and IDS) but the center-left party (SDP) didn’t pick up the vote – secondary parties and independents did. So in Motovun it wasn’t all bad news – IDS lost 3 seats (from 9 down to 6), SDP/Greens also lost a seat (from 4 to 3 (Ranko was 4th on their list)) and a new independent party got 4 seats. These Motovun independents, before the election, had voiced their concerns about the golf development – so we have to wait and see.

Mayor Vugrinec has already thrown a tantrum, stating he no longer wants the position if he doesn’t have an absolute majority in the town council!

The saga continues…

( In Split, after earning over 45% of the initial vote, Kerum will be in a run-off this weekend – which he is likely to win – and become our next mayor.)

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May 27 2009

Sveti Duje – Stereo MCs and Arctic Monkeys

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Sveti Duje (Saint Domnius) is the patron saint and protector of Split (and features on Split’s coat-of-arms). Duje was the first Bishop of Salona – the most important Eastern Adriatic Roman city, the ruins of which are about 10kms from the center of Split.

In 303 Emperor Diocletian banned Christianity as a religion and began to persecute Christians across the Roman Empire. The Governor of Salona arrested Duje and sent him to the amphitheater where he met a gruesome end on April 10, 304.

In 313 Emperor Constantine reversed the previous order and Christians came out of their cellars. Sveti Duje began to be worshiped as a matyr and in the 7th Century his bones were moved to, ironically, Diocletian’s mausoleum in the center of Split’s old town. (The re-named Cathedral of Saint Domnius is the world’s oldest cathedral.)

The feast day for Sveti Duje is May 7 and a large mass is held on the waterfront. Then in the evening the stage transforms into a concert venue – this year the Stereo MCs entertained us – very early 90s.

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Since 2001 a small rowing regatta is held in the town’s port. Crews from Oxford and Cambridge arrive to race Split’s best – Split has a strong tradition in rowing with clubs such as Gusar and Mornar earning many World Championship and Olympic medals.

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(Another concert has been confirmed for SPlit – on July 7 in Trg Republika the Arctic Monkeys will play.)

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May 27 2009

Marko Marulić on Croatia Online

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Jane Cody, who is holidaying in England at the moment, wrote an article on her blog, Croatia Online, regarding Split’s renown Renaissance author Marko Marulić’s influence on England’s Henry VIII.

Jane does her self an injustice – describing her blog as not an in depth cultural resource on Croatia – her prose and subjects are definitely more professional than ours! Please have a read.

The picture above is of the statue of Marko Marulić in Voćni Trg in Split, by Split’s other famous artistic son, sculptor Ivan Meštrović. We always point it out during our Walking Tour of the old town.

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Jane notes that Marulić is buried in Split’s Franciscan Monastery – the church and his tomb are shown above.

The Franciscan Monastery is the site of another of Split’s landmarks – our Modrulj Laundrette – and the church is our landlord.

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May 26 2009

Breaded Artichokes on Hvar Island

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Two weeks ago, Amber and Evan decided to join us at Marija and Pjerino Šimunović’s Konoba Dionis on the Pakleni Islands, just off Hvar Town, for a day in the sun and some good food.

We helped to pick all the vegetables from the garden – potatoes, spring onions, and, most importantly, artichokes. (It was the end of the artichoke season.)

Marija also picked the wild herbs and shrubs, explaining that almost everything that grows on the islands can be used in the kitchen.

Marija showed us how she prepares Breaded Artichokes with Peas.

The meal then started with Dionis’ famous Eggplant Pie, followed by the artichokes, then fried skate with vegetables and finished with a home-made torte.

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May 26 2009

Konoba Izvor – Žrnovnica (Near Split)

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Hearing about our search for the best local trout meal, our crazy Aussie Croatian friends, Jen and Jude from Perth, took us to their favorite weekend noshery, Konoba Izvor in Žrnovnica.

Izvor means source or spring, and the Žrnovnica River appears from the limestone just up from the restaurant. Locals can be seen hiking up the path below the terrace with empty bottles to fill – beats paying for the same water in the supermarket. In amongst the greenery and with the sound of the stream it is easy to forget you are only 10 minutes from Split.

We liked the food so much we went back 2 weeks later.

The Konoba is run by Nana Mateljan and its best to book ahead on the weekend – telephone +385 (0)91.785.6913 or +385 (0)21.472.020 (Nana speaks 5 or 6 languages).

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May 07 2009

Griša – Split’s Wooden Boat Guy

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Split’s a small town – almost 250,000 people – and the traditional wooden boat community is even smaller.

Tonka Alujević, our sea-faring friend and owner of Bonnie’s ‘favorite boat in the world‘, is also a journalist. The latest edition of Otvoreno More, the local nautical magazine, features her article on the Dani Hrvatske Male Brodogradnje (Croatian Small Boat Days).

Tonka’s vote for the fair’s best boat (pictured in the article) went to one built by Griša Čurin from Barka. Griša is the man in charge of the renovation of our boat – the Labud.

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May 04 2009

Croatian Towns in Italy – Molise Croats

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The Italian influence on Croatia over thousands of years has been great. The Romans, Venetians and Italian Empires have for at different times taken parts of the country. Even today, in Istria all the street signs are bilingual and in Dalmatia there are many Italian surnames.

But it hasn’t been all one way traffic. The citizens of three small, hilltop towns in Italy’s Molise region (above) – Acquaviva Collecroce (Kruč), San Felice del Molise (Štifilić) and Montemitro (Montemitro) – speak an archaic Štokavian dialect. Štokavian is one of the three main Croatian dialects.

As the Islamic Ottoman Empire advance through Hercegovina during the 15th Century, Catholic Croats and Orthodox Albanians fled before them, and crossed the Adriatic Sea. Finding several villages abandoned because of the plague, they settled down and have been there ever since.

The Molise Croats are considered to be Italy’s smallest ethnic group – about 5,000 still speak their language.

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In the town of Montemitro (above) – the local soccer team wears Croatian colours.

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(Another historical note – at the end of WW2, Yugoslavia retook parts of Dalmatia that had been part of the Kingdom of Italy between the wars. More than 20,000 ethnic Italian Dalmatians fled from the region and thousands of them still live in a suburb of Rome, called the Quartiere Dalmato.)

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May 02 2009

Kerum for Mayor (or Not!) – Local Elections in Split

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Businessman Zeljko Kerum (on his campaign poster above), the local answer to Donald Trump, has jumped into the May 17th Split mayoral race as an independent, and is stirring things up.

An open letter was published, this week, by several of Split’s ‘intelligentsia’ urging people to vote for anyone but him.

But given Split’s recent luck with local politicians (look at the monstrous 10 million Euro waterfront renovation we got two years ago – guests often ask in which year did Tito build it!), who knows, maybe, he wouldn’t do a worse job!

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He is definitely courting the populist vote – driving expensive cars (Ferraris, a Hummer and a Maybach) in a relatively poor city; guaranteeing jobs for the 400 old workers at his Hotel Marjan renovation (it was a heavily-indebted, government-owned hotel until recently); even his poster (above) is in the local Dalmatian dialect – rather than the national Croatian language (Vrime je! instead of Vrijeme je! – meaning Its Time!).

Kerum’s problem is that he has huge conflicts of interest. He has many projects on the go with several requiring local council approval. And there have been persistent rumors about Kerum doing dodgy business (selling UN aid, supplied by his father, through his first mini-mart during the war; not always paying his staff and creditors regularly).

But it really is a case of his ego requiring him to enter and win. His more obnoxious critics have called him a hill-billy – from the family village of Kerumi over the mountains – and it does appear as though he is desperately seeking someone’s approval.

But here in Eastern Europe, elections usually come down to choosing the most altruistic egotist.

Yesterday’s poll had Kerum in second place with about 30% of the vote – behind the SDP (centre-left) candidate.

But the big question is – with all their money – why can’t ‘The Donald’ or Zeljko get better hair cuts?

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May 02 2009

New Croatian Anti-Smoking Laws

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This Wednesday (6th May), the law that 30% of Croatians have been dreading (and the other 70% have been praying for) comes into effect – it will be illegal to smoke inside any public areas, such as bars, cafes and restaurants (hospitals and the like have had this regulation for some time now). Smokers will still be able to light-up on any outside spaces which, since the warm weather has arrived, giving locals a chance to enjoy the cafe tables outside, will allow them to adapt to the new restrictions.

The fines, if caught smoking in the wrong place, will be 1000kn (about US$200) for the smoker and 30,000kn (about US$6,000) for the owner of the premises. Given the Croatian government’s shaking financial situation, don’t be surprised to see the inspectors out in force, raising revenue. If you are coming to Croatia for the summer just keep it in mind.

(Tobacco served a more sinister role in the former Yugoslav states during the 90s – the smuggling of cigarettes into Western Europe funded many of the murderous paramilitaries.)

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Apr 30 2009

Dalmatian Coat of Arms and Croatian Flag

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The finishing touches are being completed on the leut, including her name been painted on the stern. As mentioned previously her name, Labud – which means ’swan’ in Croatian – is a reference to the river which runs through Perth. From my parents’ house on the river the Swan Yacht Club can be seen. Its burgee (below) will fly from the Labud’s rigging.

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The swan on the burgee is black (the colour the boat is painted) – since in the antipodes everything is done backwards. Black swans appear on everything in Western Australia – including on the state flag and its coat of arms (both above).

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Its only fair that the state symbol for Dalmatia is also flown. The flag and coat of arms above show Dalmatia’s three golden leopards on a their blue background. (Yes the leopards have manes! In medieval heraldry leopards were often shown without spots and with manes – as they were believed to a crossbreed of a lion and a panther). The origins of this symbol are lost – though examples from the 14th Century exist.

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The Dalmatian Coat of Arms is included on the Croatian Coat of Arms and flag (above). Its in the middle of the five small symbols above the medieval (maybe even 10th Century) Croatian red and white chequey (šahovnica). Of course the Croatian flag will be the highest flag on the boat since it will be Croatian registered.

The small symbols of the Croatian Coat of Arms are as follows (from left to right):

- The oldest known coat of arms of Croatian rulers- a golden six-pointed star over a silver moon on a blue shield – thought to be pagan symbols. (The crescent moon has nothing to do with Islam as the shield predates the religion).

- The coat of arms of the Dubrovnik Republic – two red stripes on a dark blue shield.

- Dalmatia.

- The coat of arms of Istria – a golden goat with red hooves and horns, on a dark blue shield.

- The 15th Century coat of arms of the northern region of Slavonia – two silver stripes, which represent the Drava and Sava Rivers that form it’s borders, on blue shield , between them, on a red field a black, a running marten (a mongoose-like animal known as a kuna in Croatian) and above a six-pointed, golden star. The pelts of the kuna were used as a early form of early money in Croatia, so the local currency now called the kuna (below)

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There will also be an Australian flag somewhere on the boat…

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Apr 28 2009

Dubrovnik’s Synagogue

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Several years ago, for our Jewish friends in Perth, we prepared an article on Split’s Synagogue, which is the world’s second oldest Sephardic synagogue still operational.

The world’s oldest Sephardic synagogue (and Europe’s second oldest synagogue after Prague’s) is just down the road in Dubrovnik.

How did Dubrovnik end up with this monument?

In 1492, in the same month he sent Columbus off to the New World, the king of Spain, Ferdinand II, expelled 200,000 Jews from his country. The fleeing Sephardim (Sefarad being Hebrew for Spain) headed east, as they had heard the Sultan of the Ottoman Empire, Bajazet II, was more than happy to accept them. “How can you call Ferdinand II a wise king, the same Ferdinand who impoverished his own land and enriched ours?”

Of those that survived the expulsion, some decided not to travel the whole way to Asia Minor, and instead joined with a small number of existing Jews to form a strong community in Dubrovnik.

Putting aside their Antisemitism for the sake of business pragmatism, the elders of the mercantile city of Dubrovnik allowed the Jews to settle inside the city walls in 1546, and build a temple (in a 13th Century house). Since then, through good and extremely bad times (various persecutions directed by various rulers), the community has remained on Zudioska Ulica (the Jewish Street).

During the last war the synagogue was damaged – as were the buildings containing places of worship for all faiths; Catholic, Orthodox, Islamic and Jewish – that vandalism didn’t discriminate. Renovations were completed in 1997.

(The picture which looks like a air-conditioning vent is a screen which women had to sit behind – until the 19th Century when a balcony was built for them.)

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Apr 21 2009

Bartolović Wines – Slavonia

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A young Australian Croatian living in Zagreb, Ivan Srpek, started a wine import/export company, Bin 19, a couple of years ago.

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He threw a party in Fabro Restaurant, on Murter Island, the other night to introduce one of his clients, Bartolović Wines, to the local restaurateurs.

Bartolović Wines is a new family run winery near Požega, in the northern Slavonia region. We have mentioned other wineries in the area in a previous Croatian wine story.

Fabro prepared a tasting menu to accompany the various wines. In order we had -

Graševina – Welsh Riesling
Pinot sivi - Pinot Grigio
Rajnski rizling – Rhine Riesling
Chardonnay
Pinot crni – Pinot Noir
Kaptol – a blend of Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon

Their Chardonnay was very interesting – the winemaker chooses to stir up the lees into the wine as it matures which gave it a creamy, vanilla aroma and mouth feel.

Ivan mentioned that the local edition of Playboy will be doing a large piece on the vineyard – good thing I buy it for the articles!

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Apr 19 2009

Tonka and Alen’s Traditional Boat Voyage

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Split’s adventurous couple, Tonka Alujević and Alen Krstulović, last night presented the documentary for their last adventure – rowing and sailing their renovated 1936 2.9m guc (shown above) 550 nautical miles through France’s Canal du Midi, from the Mediterranean Sea to Atlantic Ocean, and finishing in Brest for the International Maritime Festival last year.

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The website for the guc project is here and the other website for all of Tonka’s and Alen’s adventures, such as riding their BMW motorcycle around the Mediterranean, is here.

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Their presentation was part of the Dani Hrvatske Male Brodogradnje (Croatian Small Boat Days) held at the Le Meridien Grand Hotel Lav. This small fair was held just after the Croatia Boat Show in Split – its big, but not as handsome, brother.

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This year, its 11th, the Croatia Boat Show, from the outside, seemed a disaster. The number of exhibitors was down (and I assume the number of buyers) due to the world’s financial concerns, but it didn’t help that Huey, the weather god, sent rain squalls and fog for the whole week.

Aklie, the boat show critic, only liked two things – the Aston Martin DBS and the ‘pirate boat’ (really the Tirena, a replica of a 16th Century Ragusan galleon). Slim pickings indeed!

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Apr 19 2009

Frogs Legs and Ancient Roman Food – Dalmatinska Zagora

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I’m not going to sugar coat it – it would be a difficult task to find rougher towns in Europe than some of the towns of Dalmatinska Zagora, such as Sinj, Trilj and Imotski.

But there are still hidden gems out behind the hills to be discovered. Take Restaurant Premijer.

Having given up searching for a restaurant recommendation between Sinj and Trilj, we took a gamble and decided to try it for lunch.

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The first pages of the menu were given over to the specialties of the house. The restaurant had researched food from the period (late 2nd Century – early 3rd Century) of Roman Emperor Diocletian, a local lad. The main source was a text written at the end of the 3rd Century by Caelius Apicius.

Dishes included -

Cucurbitis Farsilibus – Zucchini Stuffed with Veal Brains

In Ovis Hapalis – Eggs with Pine-nut Sauce

Piscibus – Roasted Trout with a Sweet Herb Sauce

Globos – A Dessert with Honey

Muslum - Wine with Honey

They also offered other local foods – Aklie went for the Grilled Frogs with Pršut (prosciutto).

Split celebrates its patron saint’s day – Sveti Duje (Saint Dominus) – every 7th May. Duje was martyred in Salona’s arena by Diocletian. Restaurant Premijer, during the day, hosts, in the field next to the restaurant, an annual Romans versus Dalmatians soccer match, and, in the evening, they prepare their Roman food for a feast held in the basements of Diocletian’s Palace.

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Apr 15 2009

Bars Inside Split’s Diocletian’s Palace

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The colourful poster above is promoting an upcoming show by our friend, percussionist, Kristiano Gamulin Cenci, at Puls Bar on 24 April. If you want to hear some of Kristiano’s music go to his Myspace page.

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Puls is one of a collection of small bars inside Diocletian’s Palace that wake-up in Spring – the others are Fluid and Ghetto. All are located just around the corner from Vočni Trg. They put tables on the steps of the small street in front for lounging around – but on warm nights its standing room only.

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The back room of Fluid is original 1700-year-old Roman stonework – the prefect grotto to get cozy in during the winter.

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On summer weekends, Ghetto has live music in its 16th Century Venetian Palace garden – we know, we used to live upstairs!

Not in the Palace, but still inside the Old Town, behind the old Town Hall in the Pjaca, is Ga Ga, where good cocktails can be bought to sip in their crowded courtyard.

If a quiet coffee is required the best cafes in the Palace can be found close to the Golden Gate – Teak, Porta and Dante. The back wall of Teak is part of the Palace’s exterior defensive walls, and its downstairs room is another warm winter hideout.

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Apr 15 2009

Local Souvenirs from Split

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If looking for a unique souvenir from Split, I would go with what Dalmatians do best – wine and olive oil.

For wine, Vinoteka Bouquet is the best place to go shopping. The manager, Denis Bižaca, is not only very knowledgeable about Croatian wine, but can explain it all in English. The shop is 50m from our laundromat (just around the corner – opposite the fountain). I took Cameron Hewitt, from Rick Steves, there several years ago and he has been using Denis as a reference ever since.

The same owners also run Enoteka Terra, in Bačvice. Its a wine bar/bistro, with an excellent steak tartar and dried bear sausage. The wait staff are helpful with selecting wine to accompany each of the small dishes.

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Uje – The First Croatian Olive Oil Shop inside Diocletian’s Palace sells many local products – including very good oil. It can be found between Vočni Trg and the Pjaca (the main square).

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Apr 14 2009

Pršut

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Easter has traditionally been a more important holiday for Croatians than Christmas. They enjoy organizing large family gatherings in their villages, to eat and drink in the sun of the first warm Spring days.

We went to visit my grandmother’s family in the small town of Raščane, in the Dalmatian hinterland.

Whilst there the discussion turn to pršut. Pršut is local name for cured ham – similar to prosciutto crudo from Italy.

Before refrigerators arrived in the hills, so that fresh meat could be eaten on Christmas Day, about a week prior, the pigs, that had been fatten-up the during the year, were slaughtered. The exact timing depended on the weather – the pigs couldn’t be killed when the warm, humid jugo was blowing – as the meat would rot quickly – but the villagers had to wait for the first bura, the cold, dry, Continental wind, to blow.

Today, this tradition continues. The meat for the Christmas feast is put aside and the rest is then cured. To cure it, the pork pieces are put in salt with large stones placed on top. The salt and the pressure push out any moisture. The curing process lasts up to 3 weeks.

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Then, unlike prosciutto crudo, Dalmatian pršut is smoked afterwards in the rafters of small rooms. The smoke room of a village house, like that of my late grandmother, above, in abandoned Gornje Raščane, were attached to the side of the main building. They didn’t have chimneys, but the smoke from the fire would waft up through the rafters and stone shingles, smoking the meat as it went.

A small fire has to be lit every day for 4 months. Depending on which wood used, different flavors can be produced. The pršut can then be kept for 3 years, in a dry, cool space. During this time is will become coated with a nice green mold – don’t worry, this means all is ok.

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Pršut is made from the shoulders of the pig – panceta is the cured belly and pečenica is the cured back. Sausages were also produced using the intestines – basically none of the animal was wasted.

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Apr 11 2009

Croatia joins NATO

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Politics

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With very little fanfare, this week Croatia (together with Albania) joined NATO, bringing the total of countries in the alliance to 28. (We previously mentioned the talks last year regarding this issue – here.)

At NATO Headquarters in Brussels, on Tuesday,the two countries’ flags were raised in the presence of their respective Prime Ministers – Sali Berisha of Albania and Ivo Sanader of Croatia. Albania and Croatia had officially become members on 1 April and participated in their first summit on 3 and 4 April.

Even though Prime Minister enjoys any chance to get his picture on the television, the event passed relatively quietly here in Croatia – unlike Albania which had big concerts and NATO flags flown throughout the country. Croatians are nervous about joining these international organizations – with it being an even-money bet for a positive result to any EU membership referendum if held presently. It appears Sanader is trying to have a little each-way as local elections approach in May.

The subtle changes so far have been we have already seen several American naval vessels visit Split this month, and advertising is appearing in local buses to entice youngsters to join Croatia’s new totally professional military; there is no longer compulsory national military service here – a NATO requirement.

The big question – how much pressure will this membership put on Croatia’s fiscal situation? What will Croatia be required to purchase to update its military so that it can now play with the big boys?

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Apr 08 2009

Dalmatian Dogs – From Dalmatia?

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Dalmatia, History

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Whenever we write about Dalmatians its done in reference to the people inhabiting the Dalmatia region of Croatia – where Split is the main city. But many ask us if Dalmatian dogs (Dalmatinac in Croatian) originate from here.

So we contacted the Croatian Kennel Union.

Cynologists (those who study dogs) believe Dalmatians are one of the oldest breeds in the world and for many years have tried to trace the roots of the dog to various areas of Europe, Asia and Africa without success.

Apparently the story of its development has a spotted Cretan Hound crossed with a White Antelope Dog from ancient Egypt, around 400BC, creating a distinctly colored hound that loved running alongside horses.

It is believed that Dalmatians (the people) were introduced to Dalmatians (the dogs) by Romany (gypsies) traveling in wagons from the east. The locals appreciated how well the dogs protected their families and interacted with their equine companions, so began to use them for similar purposes.

The first known textual reference to the dogs was in 1737, under the name Canis Dalmaticus – the text can found in the archive of the Đakovo bishopric.

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In 1792 the Englishman Thomas Bewick, a wood engraver and ornithologist, published the drawing above and a description of “the Dalmatian or Coach Dog.” (The International Kennel Club Federation – FCI – recognized Dalmatia as its region of origin citing Bewick’s work.)

(Another story is that the name Dalmatian is a corruption of the term Damachien, which can be translated as Deer Hound (a mix of the Latin and French words Dama and Chien which respectively mean deer and dog) – so Dalmatians didn’t actually come from Dalmatia!)

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After 1862, when they were first shown in Britain, given their preceding reputation, Dalmatians became popular with the landed gentry as a coach dog and it became common to see one running beside a carriage (or even behind the horse’s heels and under the axles of a carriage!)

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As the first fire engines were horse-drawn the use of Dalmatians as carriage dogs was transferred to them, and to this day they serve as firehouse mascots. The breed was also still considered to make good guard dogs and may have been used to protect a firehouse and its equipment. Fire engines were drawn by powerful horses, a tempting target for thieves.

In the USA, Dalmatians are associated with Budweiser beer, since the Anheuser-Busch company’s beer wagon, drawn by a team of Clydesdale horses, is always accompanied by one, as they were historically used by brewers to watch the wagon while the driver was making deliveries. Though records indicate Dalmatians were available during the American Revolution (there are letters from George Washington requesting a Dalmatian stud be found for his bitches), the first Dalmatian wasn’t registered with the American Kennel Club until 1888 and the Dalmatian Club of America wasn’t founded until 1905.

In Britain the British Dalmatian Club was formed in 1910.

In 1994, the FCI acknowledged Croatia as the domicile of the breed, and in 1999 Dalmatians were put under the full authority of the Croatian Kennel Union.

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Numerous images appear through history of spotted dogs. Those above are of a dog of unknown breed on the coffin of Egyptian businessman, Khui, from the 20th Dynasty (12th Century BC).

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A 14th Century fresco, above, in the Spanish Chapel of Santa Maria Novella in Florence, Italy shows spotted dogs similar to Dalmatians, and the church came to be represented symbolically in the art of the day by a black and white dog.

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German and Italian paintings from the 16th Century depict spotted dogs. The image above is known as The Boy with Dalmatian from the Italian Domenichino (Domenico Zampieri), painted around 1620. Below the Dauphin of France (1655-1732) was painted in 1687 petting another possible Dalmatian.

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The Meissen Porcelain Factory produced these figurines above in 1762, but they are cataloged as ‘Danish Dogs’ – Dalmatians have also been referred to as the Lesser Dane or the Danish Spotted Dog as they may have worked alongside Great Danes as carriage dogs.

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The breed’s greatest public relations coup was with the 1956 children’s novel by Dodie Smith, The Hundred and One Dalmatians, or the Great Dog Robbery. The novel was made into a Disney animated film in 1961 – One Hundred and One Dalmatians.

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So if the dog was named for the region, where did the region get its name?

The Dalmatae were an ancient, pre-Roman, semi-nomadic people who inhabited the eastern Adriatic coast, between the Krka and Neretva Rivers, from the 4th Century BC. They were classed as an Illyrian tribe by the Romans – though Illyrian was used by the Romans as an all-encompassing term for the tribes from Istria to Albania that were considered barbarian.

The modern Albanian word delme means sheep – it appears the Dalmatae were known for their herding skills.

Though they may have been simple farmers, the mighty Roman Empire fought for over 160 years, from 156BC, to fully subsume the tribe – they were the most difficult to conquer of all the Illyrians.

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Apr 02 2009

Jupiter Adria Continues On Its Corrupt Way in Motovun

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On the telephone today I asked Ranko Bon to provide a short update in regards to Jupiter Adria’s golf course resort proposal in the valley below Motovun. He did more than that – and wrote a full account of recent events there, including local press reaction, on his Residua Blog.

Last June we mentioned (here) a March decision by a commission setup jointly by the Minister of the Environment and the Minister of Culture to vet Jupiter Adria’s proposal. The commission requested that the number of beds in the accommodation around the course be halved (from 600 to 300).

Jupiter Adria refused to swallow this decision – and so the ‘behind-the-scenes’ pressure began.

Firstly, the Ministry of Culture was seemingly side-lined. Golf courses today don’t have the environmental impact they once did – new grass species have reduced the water and chemicals required for their maintenance – and the same can be said for the resort development surrounding. But convincing the Ministry of Culture that a development of the size planned was not going to affect Motovun in more subjective ways, such as hurting the truffle gathering or have a dramatic visual impact, was going to be too difficult for the pro-Jupiter Adria camp.

Secondly, the Mayor of Motovun, Slobodan Vugrinec, in October turned the simple administrative process of the public discussion of the environmental impact study into a pro-resort political rally packed with supporters to try to impress the local media.

Thirdly, the makeup of the commission was changed. As mentioned in Ranko’s piece, the president of the commission, Dr Velimir Simicic, was fired, and replaced, by the Minister for the Environment Marina Matulovic-Dropulic, with a petty bureaucrat. Dr Simicic, far from being a rabid, tree-hugging, anti-development ‘greenie’, is well known for his pro-golf stance (writing a 1995 golf and tourism piece) but was against this particular development.

Lastly, strangely, other commission members began to change their minds.

So on January 29 it was announced that the commission passed the proposal, although 3 out of 9 members were still opposed to it.

One of the 3 members in opposition was Zlatan Juras. He is also not a ‘pinko’, sandal-wearing lentil-eater. He is Croatia’s first international golf referee, a past member of the national team (Captain at previous European and World Championships), the founder and first president of the Committee for the Rules and Amateur Status of the Croatian Golf Federation, and the chief editor of the Croatian golf magazines Golf World, Golf Magazine and Crogolf.com. If anyone in the whole world would support a golf course in Croatia it would him – but no! – he opposes Jupiter Adria’s unsustainable proposal!

On March 26 the Minister for the Environment announced that it was ratifying the commissions decision. Jupiter Adria is now one step closer to starting the bull-dozers.

Recently other cases have shown that the Motovun result is not unique in Croatia but rather a symptom of weak governance where officials can either be easily convinced of the benefits of such-and-such proposal, easily be bullied by EU officials or simply bought off with foreign money. Rockwool, an EU insulation company, recently commissioned a polluting factory in Istria that received generous tax and environmental breaks; local environmental inspectors were warned by Zagreb to stay away from a Polish-owned metal recycling plant in Split, which has been spewing noxious gases daily. An asbestos factory (Salonit) in Split and two cement works in Istria, which burnt toxic Italian waste as fuel, have only just closed.

As Croatia rushes to join the EU it is also fast becoming its Mexico!

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Apr 01 2009

Josephine Tomić Wins Cycling Gold

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An excited Dani Tomić dropped into the laundromat today to introduce his 19-year-old daughter Josephine.

Dani is from our hometown, Perth, but several years ago returned to Croatia and setup various enterprises on Brač Island.

His excitement was over his daughter’s victory at the World Track Cycling Championships in Poland this week.

Though she races in Aussie ‘green and gold’, the local community here is very proud of her, and tomorrow she will meet the Split mayor. Above is an article from the Slobodna Dalmacija newspaper. Another article appeared in The Australian newspaper here.

The Croatian article explains that Josephine is not the only Tomić doing well for Australia in world sport. Bernard Tomic is one of our rising tennis stars.

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Apr 01 2009

Shakespeare and Dalmatia

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Back in high school literature class we were introduced to Shakespeare (April 1564 – April 1616). While reading his work the word argosy appeared several times, in works such as The Merchant of Venice, Henry VI Part III and The Taming of the Shrew, in reference to a merchant ship, or a fleet of merchant ships operating together under the same ownership.

It turns out the word is derived from the Latin name for Dubrovnik, Ragusa, a major shipping power during Shakespeare’s life and entered the Renaissance English language through the Italian ragusea, meaning a Ragusan ship.

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More about Dubrovnik’s maritime history can be found in Robin Harris’ Dubrovnik – A History.

I had also heard whispers that there were other connections between Dalmatia and Shakespeare, so I asked Simon Ryle, our resident expert. Simon is a professor of English in the University of Split’s Philosophy Department and is currently completing his PhD in Literature from Cambridge University – the working title of which is Shakespeare’s Desires / Cinematic Interventions. It is a study of the various film adaptations of Shakespeare.

Simon recommended Open Source Shakespeare as a good site for anything regarding the Bard’s texts and he explained that the links between Dalmatia and Shakespeare fall into 2 broad themes.

Firstly, Dalmatia is used as a site of the ‘Exotic Other’.

In The Twelfth Night, Viola and Sebastian are wrecked on the Illyrian coast. Illyrians were the people from a loose collection of tribes that inhabited the region from Istria to Albania. Shakespeare had mentioned it previously, in Henry VI, Part II, noting its reputation for pirates, and it was used to conjured up Romantic notions in his English audiences.

The local tendency towards piracy was also used in The Merchant of Venice, when as Antonio’s ships approach Venice it is implied they are attacked and lost. Pirates were common on the Adriatic Sea at that time, the most famous being the Uskoks.

The Uskoks were Christians who had fled before the advancing Ottomans, and in 1537 had settled around the town of Senj, on the northern Dalmatian coast. The Austrians, who controlled this part of Croatia, welcomed them as a permanent militia force, and promised to pay them an annual salary.

The Uskok quickly made good use of their new base – a stronghold that was unassailable by cavalry or artillery. The Austrians rarely paid the money promised, so the Uskoks took to the water in small, shallow-drafted boats to raid the passing commercial traffic – the trading fleets of the Ottomans and Venetians.

(The Uskoks had no qualms attacking Venetians as they believed the Venetians had betrayed their Christian brothers by continuing to deal with and side with the Ottomans.)

Venice’s frequent complaints to the Austrians resulted in little action and the Uskoks continued their conduct until 1615 when their capture and beheading of the Venetian Admiral Christoforo Veniero led to the Uskok War between Venice and Austria. At the end of the war the Uskoks they were abandoned by Austria in the Treaty of Madrid.

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The image above is of the Uskok castle in Senj.

Secondly, Shakespeare adapted stories from many sources – primarily French and Italian.

There is a possibilty that the 12th Century Croatian text, the Chronicle of Father Dukljanin, was the inspiration for The Tempest. The Chronicle was written by Catholic Archbishop Gregory Grisobulj from Bar (in modern Montenegro) around 1172-1196, and is one of the earliest books from the region.

Dalmatia also has its own Romeo and Juliet tale . In Kaštel Lukšić in the late-17th Century (Shakespeare published his version 1597) the Vitturi family had a daughter, Dobrila, and the Rušinić family a son, Miljenko, who fell deeply in love. However a quarrel existed between their fathers over feudal rights regarding peasants, which forced the lovers to meet secretly.

Eventually, their parents learned of their affair and Miljenko was sent to Venice. Dobrila’s father, Conte Radoslav, then arranged her marriage to an elderly nobleman from Trogir. Miljenko in Venice was informed and after rushing to Kaštel Lukšić arrived just in time to stop the wedding.

Dobrila’s angry father decided this time to confine his daughter to the convent of Saint Nikola in Trogir. But again Miljenko tried to rescue Dobrila, meeting her boat at the port, wielding his sword. The local magistrate exiled Miljenko to the Franciscan monastery on Visovac Island on the Krka River, not far from Šibenik.

The determined Dobrila escaped from the convent and made her way to the Visovac monastery.

Hearing they were finally together, her father made peace with Miljenko’s father, Conte Adalbert, who then had the lovers return to Kaštel Lukšić for a wedding.

But after the wedding and feasting, Radoslav sought revenge and shot his son-in-law dead on bridge in front of his castle, Vitturi, in Kaštel Lukšić. Dobrila, crushed by grief, lost her mind and died soon after. Her last wish was to be buried in the same grave as Miljenko in the church of Saint Ivan in Rušinac. Today their gravestone stands with the inscription “Pokoj ljubovnikom” (Peace to Lovers).

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Another Dalmatian claim to fame in the literary world is the local belief that Mljet Island is Ogygia Island where Odysseus was held captive by the nymph Calypso, daughter of Atlas, as her lover for 7 years.

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Mar 30 2009

Upcoming Concerts in Croatia (and Surrounds)

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Italy, Slovenia

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Summer in Croatia means concerts, and this year several big names are coming to visit us (or countries nearby).

Beyonce – April 26th – Zagreb, Croatia

Depeche Mode – May 21st – Zagreb, Croatia

AC/DC – May 26th – Belgrade, Serbia

Killers – June 7th – Ljubljana, Slovenia

Lenny Kravitz - June 8th – Ljubljana, Slovenia

Franz Ferdinand – June 24th – Zagreb, Croatia

U2 – August 10th – Zagreb, Croatia

Madonna – August 20th – Ljubljana, Slovenia & August 24th – Belgrade, Serbia

This list doesn’t include the numerous concerts in northern Italy, Austria and Hungary – who will have acts such as Linkin Park, P!nk, Arctic Monkeys, Sting and Moby perform (as well as many others).

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Mar 30 2009

Etno Land – Dalmatian Disneyland

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Yesterday our friend Jane Cody, who writes the best blog in Croatia – Croatia Online, invited us to Etno Land.

Etno Land was started 18 months ago by a friendly couple, Ana and Joško, who wanted to provide tourists with the opportunity to learn all aspects of traditional Dalmatian life in one place. On a walk around their compound Ana explains how people lived and worked, and the social mores of over 100 years ago.

Following the tour, guests are seated to eat the food and drink the wine they saw being produced, and to be entertained by local musicians. Joško is also completing a petting zoo for the little ones.

The hospitality of those working at Etno Land is worth the long drive out to Pakovo Selo, near Drniš. Their cherry brandy is pretty good too!

It also was the first time we were able to meet Alan and Marija Mandić and their son Roko, who run Secret Dalmatia, providing 5-star tours through-out Croatia, and also publish an educative blog.

We appreciated being able to spend the day with people who care about the long term future Croatia’s tourism industry.

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Mar 30 2009

Cooking Class at Dionis Restaurant – Hvar’s Best Restaurant

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Joanne, John and I went exploring Hvar Island on Friday by scooter. After catching the ferry from Split to Stari Grad, we drove the scooters across the island to Sveta Nedjelja, and then along the coast to Hvar Town.

On Hvar Town’s waterfront we were met by George Šimunović who raced us across to the Pakleni Islands. On Sveti Klement Island is our favorite restaurant in all of Dalmatia – Konoba Dionis – run by the Šimunović family.

We have mentioned Dionis before here as part of our sea-kayaking tour around Vis and Hvar Islands, but now we are offering the chance to visit this uniquely Dalmatian restaurant and be taught by Pjerino, George’s brother, how to prepare dishes such as octopus salad and gregada (a special Hvar fish stew) on a day tour from Split. The Šimunović family also produce their own wine and olive oil, and the production of these is also explained.

Included in the tour will be the return ferry from Split, transfer to Hvar Town, water-taxi to the restaurant, the lesson, a long 3-course lunch with wine and brandies and time on the beach. The price of the tour is 85 Euro – and will be available before May 15th and after September 30th. Please email us with any questions – info@lifejacketadventures.com .

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Mar 30 2009

Makrovega – Vegetarianism in Split

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Many vegetarians ask us where in Split can they find a good meal. (Meat forms a large part of a Dalmatian’s diet – whether its fish, lamb, veal or pork – many restaurants will look at you cross-eyed if you request a meal without it!)

But there is one place in town that offers excellent vegetarian fare – Makrovega. Its located just around the corner from the laundromat in Varoš. A daily meal is prepared which always includes soup, a main meal (with brown rice or tofu) and a side salad. At the front counter is a large selection of incredibly healthy cakes and slices.

Especially during the summer, Makrovega makes for a refreshing alternative.

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Mar 20 2009

Buddhist Centre in Split

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Dalmatia, Split

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Ten years ago an Englishman named Mark arrived in Split to start its first Buddhist Centre.

Croatians are ethnically a southern Slavic people – all thats separates them from the Serbians and Bosniaks is religion (Croatians are Catholic, Serbians are Orthodox Christian and Bosniaks are Muslim). But this difference is incredibly important – many people died because of it in the 1990s. Croatians take religion very seriously, and a large majority would say that you are not a true Croatian if you don’t go to Catholic mass regularly.

It was therefore brave for Mark to start the Buddhist Centre in a conservative town like Split – but over the years the community has thrived. (I have previously written about the trials of the Jews of Split, and Russia’s relationship with new religions has been strained.)

They now offer various levels of teaching at the Centre, which is on Rokva Street, just to the east of the old town. One of their former students has recently opened another Centre in Zadar. For a short time they also ran a great cafe in the middle of the old town – but rising rents forced it to close.

It is not uncommon to see the Buddhist priest, Wangdak, walking the streets in his colourful robes. He is also English, though his mother is Serbian from the Lika region.

In Split, they are part of the International Kadampa Buddhist Union – an international association of Mahayana Buddhist study and meditation centres that follow the Kadampa Buddhist tradition founded by Venerable Geshe Kelsang Gyatso.

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Mar 20 2009

Leut Renovation 5 – Paint

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The leut is close to completion, finally. All the benches and the galley are in, as is the engine. Currently she is being painted – mostly black. Traditionally boats were painted in whatever paint was at hand – all the available paint was poured into a big pot – so the end result was usually a grayish colour.

Since our boat will be named the Labud (The Swan), after the river which runs through Perth, and Australian swans are black, we choose a classy black with gray, white and red detailing.

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Mar 19 2009

New Sandwich Shop in Split – Art&Čok

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Art&Čok is a gourmet sandwich shop which was recently opened by Peco recently right next to Split’s fish-market.

(In Croatian ‘and’ is ‘i’ and ‘Č’ is ‘Ch’ – so the shop is ‘artichoke’.)

Peco spent 20 years in the UK and has brought all his knowledge back home, producing sandwiches filled grilled vegetables, roasted pork, marinated chicken, etc. His telephone number is 021.346.003 – keep it handy when here as he will soon be offering take-away soups and salads.

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Mar 19 2009

Stipe Božić – Split’s Mountaineer

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Split

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Jon Bowermaster, one of the world’s top travel writers, who provides a paddler’s-eye-view on many issues affecting our seas, came to Croatia in 2005 to kayak through the Dalmatian Islands as part of his Oceans 8 documentary series (Parts 1, 2 and 3 of Borderland – Sea Kayaking Croatia). At the same time he also contributed an article to National Geographic Adventure magazine. I was lucky enough to join him (plus photographer Peter McBride and Alex Nicks) for several days – marooned on Vis Island as the jugo roared in.

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Jon introduced me to one of the great sons of Croatia – Stipe Božić. (Božić means ‘Christmas’ in Croatian!)

Stipe is amongst the best mountaineers in the world – and his resume is amazing. Born in 1951, he first summited Mount Everest in 1979. He has since climbed it again, the second European behind Reinhold Messner to be on the globe’s highest point more than once. He was the 8th man in the world to climb the world’s three highest peaks – Mt. Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga – and has summited the highest peaks on each of the seven continents.

When he went down 1395 metres into the Lucas Cave near Velebit Mountain he broke the world record for total altitude (1395m (in cave) + 8848m (on Everest) = 10243 metres).

Many of his feats were made more difficult as Stipe likes to carry film equipment to document his exploits.

Stipe is currently head of the Split team of the Croatian Mountain Rescue Service (HGSS) – a group of altruistic volunteers who pull the lost and injured off Croatia’s peaks.

When Ray Fusco and I attempted to cross the Adriatic Sea by kayak, Stipe gave us great public support and even had a on-air debate with the Split’s Harbor Master (who was preventing us from going).

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Mar 18 2009

Croatian Bobsled Team

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One of our friends, Nik, is a manager with the Croatian Bobsled Team.

Their story is similar to that of the Jamaicans from the “Cool Runnings” movie – a group of athletes from a city that rarely gets snow (in this case Split), decide to enter the event.

The Croatians first competed in Salt Lake City in 2002 in the 4-man, then in Turin in 2006 and are training for next year in Vancouver. Skeleton and luge competitors, as well as girls, have also been added to the team.

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Nik’s family also runs Nono Ban, a group of old stone houses that have been recently renovated into a rustic restaurant and rooms (there is even a swimming pool), right in the centre of Brač Island at the village of Gornji Humac.

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Mar 18 2009

Torcida and Hajduk – Split

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Split

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There are two years that every little Split boy knows – 1911 and 1950.

In 1911 the local soccer team, Hajduk (which is a Balkan word for an ‘outlaw’) was formed by a group of Croatian students in Prague.

From its inception Hajduk has deliberately entangled itself in the politics of Split. Their original logo (same as the current one above) used the Croatian red and white chequy, and the club had the name “hrvatski nogometni klub Hajduk“, which means “Croatian Football Club Hajduk“.

These symbols were important because pre-WW1 Split was divided. There were those that favored Dalmatian independence from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, allowing a closer relationship to be built with Italy, and those that wanted to combine the Dalmatian region (ruled directly from Vienna) with northern Croatian, which had its own, though weak, parliament. The Austro-Hungarian rulers were against both these ideas. The founders of Hajduk were definitely in the second group – they were very pro-Croatia.

Prior to WW2, Hajduk was relatively successful, winning 2 Yugoslav championships.

In 1941 the Italians occupied Dalmatia – Mussolini had said in 1919, “Dalmatia, Italian in its origin, ardent as a saint in its faith,..holding in its bosom still the remains of Venice and of Rome…”, and so considered Dalmatia to be his by right. The Italians offered Hajduk the chance to join their soccer first division. The team, being patriotic Dalmatians, refused and en masse went to join the Partisans on Vis Island. Hajduk were the first Yugoslav team to wear the Communist ‘Red Star’.

Tito Romanticized the Dalmatians – he was quoted as saying, “… there is no task so difficult that the men of Dalmatia can not accomplish it…”, and always claimed Dalmatian ancestry, though he was born in the north. Hajduk became known as Tito’s (and the Communist Party’s) favorite team.

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In 1950 a group of Hajduk fans saw how the Brazilian supporters organized themselves at that year’s World Cup. The boys from Split decided to form their own supporters’ club (the first in Europe) and took their name from the Brazilian groups which were known as torcidas.

Torcida immediately ran into trouble. As the Communist Party considered Hajduk their team and they also didn’t like groups being organized without their approval, some of the original Torcida leaders were arrested and gaoled.

(The mural, one of many around Split, shows both the Hajduk and Torcida logos. The text says, “One soul two bodies.”)

Politics continued to play a part in the history of Hajduk. Several supporter’s clubs in Eastern Europe during the 1980s were involved in the anti-Communist movements – as the football stadiums were one of the few venues where large gathering could take place outside the control of the regimes. This wasn’t quite the case for Torcida, but Hajduk was the first Yugoslav team to remove the Communist Star from their uniforms in 1991.

In the 1980s an intense rivalry formed between the Croatian teams of Hajduk and Dinamo Zagreb, and the Belgrade teams of Red Star and Partizan, as Croatian and Serbian nationalist tensions rose.

On May 13 1990 a riot exploded between Dinamo fans, the Bad Blue Boys, and those from Red Star, the Delije (Heroes), at a game in Zagreb. This riot is seen by some as the first battle of the war that followed. The infamous Serbian criminal, Arkan, who was president of the Delije at the time, then used the Red Star fans to form the basis of his murderous militia, the Tigers.

In Croatia, Hajduk’s rival’s are Dinamo. Currently, they battling out for top position in the league and will play each other in the cup final in May.

However, until this year, Hajduk have not been up to their usual standard due to mismanagement and there have been calls for the team to be privatized – the City of Split still owns 51%.

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Each suburb of Split (and many Croatian towns) have their own Torcida branches. This mural was done in the Brda area of town and contains another common image used in the football murals – the masked Hajduk supporter.

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The mural above was done in Skalice. The text can be translated as, “Dad and Granddad also were Torcida.”

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The movie clip above shows a full Poljud Stadium, Hajduk’s home ground, singing “Dalmatinac Sam” – “I am a Dalmatian”. (If you can’t see the movie click here.)

One response so far

Mar 17 2009

That 70’s Show – The Globetrotters in Split

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Split

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Growing up in the 70s, I remember certain Americans who blurred the sporting/entertainment boundary – icons such as Muhammad Ali, Evel Knievel and the Harlem Globetrotters. (On top of all the usual promotion, didn’t they all have their own action figures and cartoons?)

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Last week the Globetrotters came to Split. I was almost surprised that they are still touring. In this post-Nintendo/X-Box, their form of entertainment seems quaint. The ‘game’ was played at the Spaladium Arena, the sports hall built for the 2009 Handball World Championships.

Of course the Globetrotters once again defeated the hapless Washington Generals – how they still fall for the 3-man weave amazes me. But at least white ex-college basketball players can get a game after they graduate and their black team-mates go off to the NBA!

The new Spaladium is an excellent space inside to watch sports. They still have to finish the exterior – a office tower is to be added to the side of the arena.

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Mar 02 2009

Clint Eastwood did ‘Kelly’s Heroes’ in Istria

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Istria, movies

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As it turns out, yet another town in Istria was used in a Hollywood production. The well-known film Kelly’s Heroes, starring Clint Eastwood, Donald Sutherland and Telly Savalas, was filmed in Vižinada, not far from Poreč, in 1970.

The plot deals with a platoon of jaded American soldiers trying to steal a bank-full of Nazi gold and the town plays the role of a small French town, Clermont, near Nancy, where the bank is located.

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Anyone who has seen the movie will recognize the bell-tower and other buildings on the square in this picture. A German Tiger tank sitting in the middle of the shot is all thats required to turn it into WW2 France.

It seems that though American films could be screened in communist Yugoslavia, the movie companies couldn’t take their profits from the country. Therefore, they spent their dinars on making new movies here.

The Tiger tank (really a dressed up Russian vehicle) used in Kelly’s Heroes had starred the year before in the Yugoslav film, The Battle of Neretva, which had Yul Brynner and Orson Welles in it.

4 responses so far

Feb 24 2009

Grand Adriatic Kayak Tour

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The combined efforts of Rene Seindal’s Venice Kayak, our Lifejacket Adventures – Croatia, Ray Fusco Inc. and Jen Kleck’s Aqua Adventures have put together the ultimate 12-day sea kayaking adventure for Europe’s Adriatic Sea. The tour combines the history of towns and cities such as Korcula, Dubrovnik and Venice – their maritime roots and the links between them going back hundreds of years – with the wine and foods of the wild Dalmatian Islands. And at the very end guests will participate in the yearly paddle-fest in Venice – the Vogalonga.

The PDF brochure for the tour can be found here. It contains lots of top pictures – so please be patient when downloading.

If you have any questions please email:

info@lifejacketadventures.com

rene@venicekayak.com

rayfusco@optonline.net

info@aqua-adventures.com

One response so far

Feb 21 2009

Julio in the Daily Telegraph

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Our crazy picigin (a type of Dalmatian water-based handball)-playing friend Julio Žuvela (pictured above playing the sport) was mentioned in the Daily Telegraph for a bicycle tour through the Croatian Islands that he leads. The article can be found here.

Maybe ’sport’ is the wrong term for picigin. It is not a competition – more of a pursuit for participants and a performance for spectators. It was invented in the shallows of Bacvice Beach, in Split. The aim is for the 5 people involved is to keep the small ball aloft – but they don’t necessarily want to make the job easy for their colleagues – instead the desire is to hit the ball into a spot that allows their friends to display their acrobatic prowess whilst stopping it landing in the water.

It could be described as the local mating dance!

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Feb 16 2009

Skiing in Kupres, Bosnia Hercegovinia

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Yesterday the forecast was for snow in Bosnia, so we piled into the car and followed Morten and his girls to the small ski resort of Kupres.

Kupres is the closest decent lifts to Split (only 1.5 hours drive), and on the weekend is a busy place with many Split number plates in the car-park. Even yesterday’s chilly conditions didn’t deter the Splicani - it was -7C (not including the wind chill – there was a howling bura) when we got out of the car!

We weren’t able to ski ourselves as we were entertaining the kids – but the runs had plenty of snow and there was more falling throughout the day – so we decided we would go again some time this week.

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Feb 14 2009

Australia or Croatia?

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We are often told we must finally decide where we want to settle and raise the kids. Yet we can’t. Our confusion was made manifest this week by two issues – one public and the other private.

The cheerful smile above belongs to Britt Lapthorne – a young Australian girl who disappeared in Dubrovnik last year. Her body was discovered several weeks later in the sea below the walls of the old town.

Last Sunday an Australian current affairs program, Sunday Night, broadcast their investigation into her death. Sunday Night used facebook to find girls who believed that local Croatian men had attempted to abduct them from the same nightclub, Club Fuego, in which Britt was last seen. The girls separately produced identi-kit pictures of their attackers, that have since been identified as Croatian police officers.

The reaction to the program by Croatian officials and the locals in general was appalling. facebook groups sprang up declaring Dubrovnik a safe city, which of course it is. But posts were made to these groups declaring the girls on the show to be liars, or that the story was part of a larger conspiracy to damage Croatian tourism, or that Britt deserved what happened to her because she was young and out partying until the early morning.

Whether attempts were actually made or that the girls were simply confused in a stressful situation, whether Britt was murdered or simply fell to her death from the cliffs around Dubrovnik, or whether or not the program was too sensational, the facts remain the same. The Croatian police have mismanaged the investigation from the very beginning. They refused to believe Britt was missing. Then when her body was found they issued a statement prior to the DNA results that it couldn’t possibly be hers – which the DNA proved to be incorrect. They did not ask for the CCTV tapes from the bar until over a week after her disappearance.

The Croatian media then attacked Britt, describing her as a drunk and known to be promiscuous.

Britt’s sad demise has made evident many of the bigotries that still exist here. Nationalism and sexism have tainted the police and public response to her disappearance and the Sunday Night investigation. Croatia’s recent history has created a feudal society where general civility and personal responsibility are lacking. The local police in their inaction have shown that they believe their responsibility lies in protecting Dubrovnik’s reputation rather discovering the truth. Croatians would rather attack the character of Britt and the other girls, the foreign press or foreigners in general than discover the truth.

Slavenka Drakulić in Cafe Europa described the difficulty of building civil societies in former communist countries 15 years ago, and her warnings are still relevant today. (An interesting aside – several of her books are difficult to find in her native Croatia because of how critical she is of conditions here, yet I can walk down to the local market and buy a copy of Mein Kampf easily! One of her recent opinion pieces can be found here.)

Travel journalists (on Croatian Tourism Board organized junkets) and even bloggers such as ourselves (with a vested interested in attracting guests to this country) extol the beauty of Croatia – yet few comment on the lack of good service or complain about an unacceptable level of rudeness. Foreigners are often seen as targets for financial exploitation – if they are traveling they must be rich – and it is not a giant leap from there to see young female backpackers as easy targets for other attacks.

More personally, 2008 was the 20th anniversary for Julie and I of our high school graduations. Julie went to PLC and I attended Scotch College in Perth. Whilst not caring to attend the reunion, I did have a drink with an old classmate whilst we were back in Australia.

He had attended the reunion and there had discovered that of our class of 120 from 1988 – 8 have died, 1 from a car accident and 7 from suicide (including our dux). This stunned me. Scotch College is a private boy’s school in the wealthiest area of Perth – one of the richest per capita areas of Australia. Yet my class has an annual suicide rate 130 times the national rate in a country with an already relatively high rate. Why?

In the school’s newsletter, which constantly gives glowing accounts of what its ‘old boys’ have accomplished, nothing is ever mentioned of this fact.

In Croatia we live with a greater sense of community in a less civil society. In Perth’s civil western suburbs we find young men killing themselves – something must be missing in society there. So we return to our problem – where to live and raise our children?

6 responses so far

Feb 10 2009

New Green Party in Motovun

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A secondary reason for us coming up to Motovun this weekend was to help our friend Ranko Bon form a local branch of Green Party – Green Alternative (Zelena stranka – Zelena alternativa) here to fight against the incumbent mayor, Slobodan Vugrinec, in the up-coming local elections.

For years the town council has not felt the need to run its affairs transparently – the primary example being the way Adria Jupiter’s golf course development was corruptly pushed through.

Is Ranko to be our Obama, and give us all renewed hope?

2 responses so far

Feb 10 2009

Jackie Chan Made a Movie in Motovun!

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After a day of running around trying to finish our house in Motovun we got back to the apartment we are renting in town and all crashed in front of the television. On the screen, flickering back at us, were images of Motovun. At first I thought it was a tourism advertisement, but then I saw Jackie Chan!

It turns out that he made film Armour of God in Motovun and other parts of Istria in 1986. To tell the truth – the film was awful (and so were the fashions). But it is famous for one incident.

Jackie is renown for doing his own stunts, and the end of his films regularly feature out-takes of him hurting himself while filming. But in Armour of God he nearly died.

Jackie is quoted as saying, “I was filming the movie in Yugoslavia and I fell from a tree. I had to jump from the branches onto a castle wall. I did the first jump and I landed OK but the take wasn’t quite right. I wanted to land like a monkey. So I went for it again and this time the tree just snapped. I fell for ages. I could see the cameraman and I was hoping he would catch me but he was so worried about the camera that he just ran away. I had blood pouring out of my ears it was a pretty serious accident.”

He landed head first on rocky ground, fracturing his skull. He was to surgery and still has a plug covering the hole the accident left in his head. Most of us come away from Croatia with just bad sunburn and a hangover.

2 responses so far

Feb 02 2009

Handball World Championship Final 2009

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Croatia, Split

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We arrived back in Croatia just in time for the final of the 2009 Handball World Championships. This year Croatia hosted the tournament. It was a big event for the whole country, with new arenas built in several cities including Split and Zagreb.

And the locals couldn’t have asked for a better tournament result as their team was in the final last night, against France.

The Croatians were favorites to again beat their opponents as they had done previously in the second round, and up until the middle of the second half they were controlling the game.

But the Croatians then missed several goals as they allowed France’s physical defense to frustrate them, and didn’t score for 10 minutes. The French were able to build a 3-goal lead and they became the latest World Champions by winning the final 24-19.

One response so far

Feb 02 2009

Mondo – Claudio’s Restaurant in the NY Times

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Our friend in Motovun, Claudio, recently took over management of the restaurant that was known as Barbacan but he renamed Mondo. We mentioned it previously as one of the places to dine in Istria. The New York Times journalist, Kabir Chibber, agrees with us in his recent article in the newspaper’s travel section, giving Claudio’s efforts the ‘thumbs up’. Its great to see recognition for a local restaurant in such a newspaper.

One response so far

Jan 29 2009

Advanced Open Water SCUBA Course

Published by Sea Kayak Croatia under Australia, Diving

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Since we have been having so much fun diving in Perth, at Rottnest and ‘Down South’, I decided to sneek in an Advanced Diver Course with Australasian Diving Academy before we return to Croatia.

ADA is a SCUBA Schools International (SSI) school.

We covered wreck diving, night and limited visibility diving, boat diving and underwater navigation.

On Tuesday night we finished the course with our night dive. In the Swan River, which typically has a relatively poor visibility, a night dive means you can only see a metre in front of you – maximum. Still, this was enough to allow me to grab six good size crabs for lunch the next day, whilst still completing the course work. The other students weren’t left out – they brought nets down to catch prawns!

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